The Elements of Baking: Making any recipe gluten-free, dairy-free, egg-free or vegan, by Katarina Cermelj:
A beautiful cookbook and an excellent reference for free-from baking. It contains a framework for adapting recipes to be gluten-free, dairy-free, egg-free, vegan, or gluten-free vegan, and explains how to mix and match if you follow more than one of these diets. It has case studies that demonstrate how Kat came up with these rules—and they are rules rather than vibes—as well as dozens of individual recipes that fit each category.
I was a bit skeptical at first because I wasn't sure who this book was for with this wildly variable free-from approach, but I know now, it's for me, and maybe for you if you love baking and are gluten-free plus something-else-free or have friends and family with multiple or overlapping sensitivities, as I think we're likely to get the most out of it. For everyone else, I recommend checking it out of the library first. (I did check it out of the library because that's always my first stop, but I just ordered my own copy from
bookshop.org to celebrate Independent Bookstore Day.)
I'm eager to try out Kat's system for adapting gluten-free recipes to be dairy-free, not just the ones in this book, but also those in her first book
Baked to Perfection, which is all gluten-free, but only incidentally dairy-free. I also have the option of taking the dairy-free recipes in this book and making them gluten free, and, if I really want to get into it, I can even try the gluten-free vegan recipes because I trust Kat and if anyone can take the eggs and dairy out of a gluten-free recipe and still have it work, she can. Except for the vegan cheesecakes (yes, plural), because, I'm sorry, but at some point it stops being a cheesecake, and I think it's once you've removed the eggs and the cheese.
I want to call this impeccable, and it nearly is, expertly presented and arranged, with lots of flowcharts and gorgeous color photographs, but I don't think she spends enough time considering what it's like to have multiple food sensitivities. For instance, she almost exclusively uses dairy-free products to replace dairy products, and dairy-free products often contain ingredients people with multiple sensitivities need to avoid, such as soy or tree nuts, so they're not a universal solution. Instead, I would have liked it if she considered neutral oils as a substitute for melted butter, or shortening in place of solid butter. There is some of that, but I think she could have gone further. There's no reason why you can't use oil in a brownie instead of butter. I do it all the time, but she never mentions the possibility. But that's a me problem. I recognize that a cookbook can't be all things to all people. Still, it's a small disappointment in an otherwise fantastic book. I've made four recipes from it so far and will keep going until I run out.
Highly recommended for those of us who can't buy anything at the grocery store without thoroughly examining the ingredients, and who sadly scroll away from recipes when they include a dealbreaker. The only thing Kat's system won't work on is gluten-free breads—because gluten-free breads be crazy—but she does include recipes for several gluten-free breads, including a base recipe for a simple white bread and one for an enriched brioche. Both can be adapted into more complicated bakes if you're feeing adventurous. Or you can peruse
her gluten-free bread category on her blog, which I also highly recommend. Her gluten-free breads are the best I've ever made.
If you have any questions about the cookbook, recipes, or ingredients, just ask!
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